Don't need to buy them at all.
I get mine FREE downloaded from the Internet.

Its called a Form Guide.
All the information is in there.

But you guys with your mechanical systems will have to make do with a mechanical crystal ball.
Try BUNNINGS.
Or an ADULT TOY SHOP.

I guess the simplicity of my staking does come from the fact that I don't know whether it's a winner or loser until after the result...so I guess your statement/offer is probably a bit simplistic...so are you talking about a stake which is based around a target which is re-adjusted after each result [as in increases with every loser?]

If you don't want to go into the full explanation can you post a link? I'm always open to offers.

I'm assuming [maybe wrongly] that your plan will win more on the winning days but lose more on the losing days?

Most betting plans come to about the same ROI, %wise just ran an old spread sheet that I have with three different betting methods.
1. 2% of highest bank
2. level stakes
3. betting to price to return set amount on each bet.

all where within 1% of each other in the end.
So what ever you think works bets for you should be the rule.

Thats strange.
You are just like me.
I don't know whether my selection will be a winner or a LOSER until after the race either :)

But what I do know, is that I am more confident about some of my selections than of some of my selections.

If the selection system is via a dartboard, then each selection will have similar confidence in there winning.
But I select by looking at whatever information I need to assess which animal has the best Chance of winning a Race.
I do this for all Races.
Some Races I have no interest in for various reasons.
But some races have more doubts that haven't been solved than others, and these are the Race selections that I will invest less on, on invest more on the animals where studies indicate much closer certainty of the animal beating the rest home in the race.

The investment has no relation to the previous Race or any Race in the Future.
It could vary depending on your Current Bank Balance , but only every day, not every bet.
Tha amount won or lost per day has no bearing on winning days or losing days.
It has bearing on how confident I am with my selections.

So if I'm not REAL confident one day about say 4 Races at a Meeting, then I might invest say $5 on each of those selections, and if they win I win little, and if they lose, I lose little.
But if I come up with 4 Best Bets, then I woud have say $20 on each selection.

Its just you bet on how confident you are on each selection relative to the other selections.

Nice Work.
Its been stated millions and zillions of times that you can ONLY win if the Odds are in your Favour.
YOU MUST GET OVER THE ODDS TO WIN.
Somehow this rule is difficult to comprehend.
You have proven it with your delving into your database.

But what you haven't noticed is the length and size of the losing runs.
This part of betting is VERY important because a Large loss in a short space of time can mean loss of your sanity.

I wonder if it is possible to run your program again and perhaps look at a graph of the UPS and DOWNS on the way to that 1% similarity at the end of the ride.

If you do, I'ld figure that the 3rd method would result in the less bumpy ride.

Not what you would think 3rd method was the wildest ride because the turnover was much higher (2 1/2 times higher than the 2%)

1. 2% bank high 10.9% low -26.1%
2. level stakes bank high 8.15% low -12.7%
3. betting to price bank high 27.2% low -67.6%

I don't understand your figures.
Are you saying at one stage, the Bank , lets say started off at $1000, managed to hit a LOW of $330?

I would find that hard to believe, and even worse, there would be massive bleeding in my bathroom if that were the case :(

What is your strike rate with your spreadsheet?
I'm working around a strike rate of Favourites which is 33% or so, maybe a little worse.

Edit : Just realized that you are probably betting to STARTING PRICES in the 3rd system, yet my idea is to bet to MY evaluated Prices.
So I could in fact have heaps on a 12 to 1 shot, rather than the 8% called for by the Public Market.

Did a summary page for you to look at.

Thanks for that Crackone.

Looks scary :(

The thing with it is like I said in my previous post.
Because MY wager will be based on MY Odds rather than the Publics Odds, there is a better Chance of my having more on the Rougher selections than on the Favoured runners, and also many of the selections were at Odds On, and I may well decide that they are UNDER the Odds and not bet on them at all, hence saving a considerable amount on Total Turnover.

New sheet had prices wrong for 3rd method:confused: looks better now. (might adopt this method ) the bets where based on a method that has a 38% SR and 112% return at Uni tab prices. (so a little down)

As for odds on pops they broke even

As with all betting if you have the SR and the DIVS to match then your laughing.